Dr Stephen Pyecroft
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There is no better relaxation than watching a well-displayed aquarium. Research has shown that half an hour sitting watching a fish tank will lower your heart rate and blood pressure. In addition, you can be happy in the knowledge that you played a part in creating this living picture.
Like all works of art, planning and design helps to create the desired affect. When the work of art is living, then understanding the mechanics and biology of the presentation is essential for its healthy maintenance. The following key points will help you to establish and maintain your own bit of nature.
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Choosing a fish tank
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Fish tanks are commonly made from glass and fish-friendly silicon adhesive, however acrylic tanks are gaining popularity. The only draw back with the acrylic tanks is that is very easy to scratch the surface, which takes away from the viewing pleasure. The tanks should be as big as you can afford. The big tanks give you a much better buffer against water quality changes and allow territories for the different fish in the tank. Tanks that are small are very prone to water quality fluctuations which stresses the fish.
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Fish tank stand
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The fish tank should be placed on a Styrofoam base sheet, which evens out the weight distribution of the bottom glass. The tank can be placed on a purpose built stand or any other flat surface. The number one rule is that the support must be able to bear the weight of a filled tank. Remember that one liter of water will weigh one kilogram. A standard 60x30x45 cm tank will hold approximately 80 liters of water, which weighs 80 kg on its own without the weight of the glass tank, gravel and accessories.
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Gravel or substrate
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The common substrate for most freshwater aquaria is gravel, which should be approximately 2mm in diameter for maximum filtration capacity and as an anchor for plants. Some aquarists will use fine sand, which may suit your fish better, though it tends not to be so good if you elect to use under gravel filter systems or high water flow in the tank. The substrate must be washed thoroughly before installation and is best positioned with a slope to the front of the tank. About a 2cm depth at the front of the tank to 5-10 m at the back. This arrangement gives a good aesthetic look but also aids in cleaning as the detritus which normally builds up in the tank with time will move forward to be removed by siphon at the front of the tank.
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Filters
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Filter systems are very easily understood if you take on board these simple concepts. Filters are designed to remove solid waste, create water flow and aeration, and chemically clean the water. There are all manner of contraptions you can purchase and use in your aquarium and provided they achieve these key functions optimally for your tank, then it matters little what their design.
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Water
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The water that is to be used in the tank needs to be of the same water quality as is required by your fish. Different types of fish will require different water qualities for health. Some fish like soft acid conditions while others may like hard alkaline conditions. The best way to find out is to research fish books, and their likes and dislikes will be listed.
Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals that are toxic to fish. These should be removed prior to usage of the water by leaving the water in contact with air for 1-2 weeks, or more effectively, by the addition of chemical de-chlorinators and removers of heavy metals. The process of removing any potential toxicants is termed 'ageing' the water. The use of rainwater or bore water raises a number of challenges in that each of these types of water will either have not enough, or too much of a number of elements, which can make them detrimental to fish.
Once you have set up your aquarium let it operate without fish for 2-4 weeks. This allows the water to age and other important biological processes to establish themselves.
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Heaters
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If you have chosen a tropical freshwater or marine fish tank, then you will require a heater to keep the fish at their preferred temperature of 23-25 degrees Celsius. Most heaters are thermostatic, so once they reach the required temperature they will automatically turn off and on as required. Having said that, my advice is always to have a thermometer of some sort in the tank so that you can visually monitor the tank temperature. As good as the technology is, if they go wrong your fish will either be chilly or cooked. In most places in Australia you may not need a heater during summer and so the thermometer allows you to assess when it is required.
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Plants
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You will require some form of artificial lighting if you are to successfully keep aquatic plants. Fluorescent or halogen type bulbs are best particularly if they produce light with peaks of blue and red spectrums light. These wavelengths give you growth in height and roots and foliage. They will require about 8 hours of light per day for best growth. Anymore than this will predispose the overgrowth of algae in the tank. Periodically your plants will require some form of fertilisation and there are all manner of products, which can used safely. Water exchanges appear to be very beneficial for aquatic plant propagation and so routine tank cleaning and water exchange will be beneficial for your plants.
Choose plants that are truly aquatic so that you are not continually having the replace them and clean out any organic material that used to be live plants.
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